Silk Chrysanthemum Brooch

Known as the flower of remembrance, transience, and mourning, the chrysanthemum is associated with All Saints’ Day, the symbolism of November, and Slovenian literary works such as Ivan Cankar’s The White Chrysanthemum. The brooch also revives the centuries-old tradition of silk farming and weaving in Slovenia, an important agricultural and industrial sector until the mid-20th century. It is made from multi-layered bobbin lace, made using silk thread spun from hand-unwound cocoons through historically restored techniques. Each thread is made from 60 cocoons and spun on a traditional wheel to create a highly smooth, uniform filament ideal for precise and refined lacework. A fine metal wire is integrated into the lace, allowing each petal to be shaped into a complex chrysanthemum flower. The lace is mounted on a hand-forged, gilded brass base with a fastening pin made from stainless steel. The brooch is the result of many years of research and design activity of the RLB Institute for Sericulture and Silk Craft (ISS RLB). In collaboration with local growers, artists, and designers, the Institute is reestablishing the local silk cultivation, processing, and production chain. All processes are carefully documented and certified in accordance with the strictest environmental standards (LCA, SLCA and LCCA) and incorporate the latest AI technologies. The Silk Chrysanthemum Brooch thus represents a blend of Slovenian tradition, advanced design and a vision for the future that considers nature. The European silkworm hybrids were provided by Silvia Cappellozza, Consiglio per la Ricerca in Agricoltura e l'Analisi dell'Economia Agraria, Centro di Ricerca Agricoltura e Ambiente (CREA-AA), Padova, Italy.